Shawn and I decided to spend this summer's vacation in the Great Northwest - namely Vancouver, Orcas Island and Seattle! Shawn had been wanting to share with me his love for Seattle; my parents had strongly recommended Vancouver; and, well, we decided that a little bit of rest and relaxation in the San Juan Islands sounded good while we were so far from home! :)

We flew into Seattle and drove to Vancouver that day. We stayed at the Granville Island Hotel on Vancouver's historic Granville Island. It was just a few steps outside our door to the Public Market, entertainment by street performers, artists and craftspeople working on and selling their wares. Did I mention that the hotel is a microbrewery as well? ;-P Anyway, Granville Island is located in the middle of Vancouver's best known urban waterways on the south side of Vancouver itself. We arrived on Canada Day, July 1st!


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This giant stump is what is left of the giant red cedar that the king and queen of Denmark drove through. It is now at a rest stop.

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Welcome to Granville Island!

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DRE* under the sign

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Have some wine! It will take the edge off after a five hour drive to Vancouver.

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Who needs steak when you can have dungeness crab AND lobster?

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Crab People!

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Just like in Fort Lauderdale, you can take the Aquabus to cross over the waterways.

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DRE* waiting for the Aquabus

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Cool, old boat parked in the harbor

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People in the Northwest seem to really enjoy thier sea kayaks. We saw a lot of them!
The Public Market on Granville Island can really only be rivaled by certain European farmer's markets. Shawn and I really both enjoyed it very much - especially the fact that they had a sort of food court. We visited each and every day while in Vancouver.

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The sign for the Public Market on Granville Island

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The market is open from 7 AM to 7 PM seven days a week!

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Fruits

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Today's catch

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This is just to give you an impression of what ONE CORNER of the market offered.

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The scent of the German food stand simply made my mouth water!

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Any place with a sign that says, "Meat of the Day" is probably going to be good!

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But it is only 8 AM. What can we have for breakfast here?

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Gulash soup, Bratwurst and spicy mustard for breakfast! We are happy tourists!

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Dessert from the French bakery

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Meat! (Ignore my face print on the glass.)

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Local, juicy and delicious cherries

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Garlic, scallions, ginger, bell peppers, tomatoes...

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Raspberries

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Cheese of every kind imaginable!

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It is Shawn's turn to drool over the meat case.

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The fanciest pot pies ever! I mean where else have you seen scallop green curry pot pie?!

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Marinades, dressings, sauces and butters

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Warm apple pie

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Cherries and berries

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More cherries

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Corn - This pic is for my father!

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Marzipan - Check out the one that looks like a hedgehog!

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Mushrooms

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Shawn poses in front of the dungeness crab tank on his quest to eat as many as possible and get gout.

Fodor's recommended taking a stroll through the 1,000 acre Stanley Park to see the Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Center and then some shopping. What they forgot to mention was the fact that this was a 6-mile stroll by the time that it was said and done. Whew! (We did, however, stop at a great little bakery downtown called Sen5es Bakery for some decadent and fancy sweets!)


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Shawn departing Granville Island

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Looking over the Granville Island harbor

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On the bridge on the way to Vancouver

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DRE* on the bridge

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Granville Island from the bridge

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These next pics are from the Vancouver Lookout! Harbour Centre Tower.

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We are 50 stories (approximately 553 feet) over the harbor.

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Cruise ship

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On a clear day, you can see Vancouver Island and Mount Baker in Washington State

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Another small harbor

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Nearing the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club

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Vancouver skyline

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Shawn leads the way!

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Shawn in front of Inukshuk, an ancient symbol of Inuit culture traditionally used as a landmark and navigation aid. This grey granite statue represents a human form with outstretched arms and is a well-known symbol in Canada of northern hospitality and friendship.

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Pretty flowers in Stanley Park

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REAL Canadian geese in Stanley Park!

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DRE* suggested alternate methods of transportation.

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Those benches look good. My feet are tired.

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Under the pier

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At the Chinese Cultural Center in Chinatown
The Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Center is actually located in Stanley Park. Lines were horrific because it was the weekend, and the weather was nice. My favorites were the sea otters and the beluga whales. From the aquarium,. we walked to the totem poles and back (to catch a taxi cab back to the hotel).

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The Vancouver Aquarium Marine Science Center

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DRE* at the entrance to the aquarium

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Our first orca sighting!

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I am not quite sure what a butterfly exhibit has to do with fish.

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It was not as good as the butterfly exhibit in Montreal.

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The aquarium had beluga whales and even a beluga whale show.

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The beluga whales look so amazing in the blue water.

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Hello!

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These sea otters are holding hands! How insanely cute!

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This is a stoic harbor seal.

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Two harbor seals swimming around

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Underneath a shark!

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Underwater life in British Columbia

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DRE* and Shawn walking through the woods

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Big trees

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Leaves

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British Columbia's native groups refer to themselves as the First Nations.

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These totem poles were all carved in the latter half of the 20th century by First Natins artists.

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The styles represent a cross section of British Columbia's native groups.

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The combination of carved animals, birds, fish, and mythological creatures represents the clan history.
Vikram Vij is the proprietor of Vij's, Vancouver's most innovative Indian restaurant. He uses local ingredients and Western ideas to create exciting takes on the cuisines of the subcontinent. None of the dishes are what I would call traditional, but the delicious aroma from the Indian spices just will not allow you to walk by.

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Cheers!

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Mutton kebobs with masala curry
 
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Bon appetit!

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Dessert
Fodor's recommended a Native American restaurant called Liliget Feast House. The restaurant is supposedly one of the few places in the world serving the original Northwest Coast First Nations cuisine. I hope that it stays that way. The buffalo smokies (i.e. sausages) and venison strips were chewy. I could not help but think that the Native Americans did not have dinner salads and mashed potatoes. Where were the steamed fern shoots, bannock break and baked sweet potatoes with hazelnuts that Fodor's promised us? To top it all off, the First Nations have started their own vineyard. Their wine called NK'MIP (pronounced incameep) was absolute swill and impossible to finish. I wish I had two more hands so that I could give this restaurant including the ambience, food and service four thumbs down.
   
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Shawn looks over the feast.
   
We sat outside at the Granville Island Hotel on our last evening - actually having a heavy snack/dessert to make up for the meal at the Liliget Feast House.

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The Granville Island Hotel
 
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Shawn enjoyed some dessert, and I had a lovely cheese plate.
 
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We sat on the deck and enjoyed the cool breeze.
On July 4th, it was time to leave Vancouver and head to Orcas Island in the San Juan Islands. Orcas Island is about a 75 minute ferry ride from Anacortes, which lies almost between Seattle and Vancouver. Orcas Island is the largest of the San Juan Islands. Spanish explorers set foot here in 1791, and the island is named for their ship - not for the black and white whales as most tourists purport.

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Welcome to Washington State Ferries Anacortes Terminal!

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Souvenirs from Granville Island's Public Market: goat cheese with black truffles and pepper salami.

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Mmmmm! Nothing says 'perfect' like goat cheese, black truffles, French bread and pepper salami!

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Anacortes

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Shawn in Anacortes stretching his legs after the drive from Vancouver

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Leaving Anacortes

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DRE* waves goodbye to Anacortes!

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We took our rental car with us.

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DRE* on the ferry

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The Brigadier

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One of the many islands in the San Juan Islands

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Check out the cedar trees!

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Shawn on the ferry. Check out the video!

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DRE* on the ferry

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Shawn on the ferry
Shawn and I stayed at Rosario Resort and Spa on Orcas Island. The center of the resort is Robert Moran's mansion. The shipping magnate built it in 1906, when he was told he had but one year more to live. Interestingly, Moran outlived his doctor’s prognosis and enjoyed quite a long life of relaxation in this unique, natural setting.


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Check out the video of these seagulls on the roof, which is covered with six tons of copper sheeting!


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The foundation for the 54-room Rosario mansion is cut into solid rock, 16 feet deep!

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Tiffany chandelier in Rosario mansion

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Stained glass window imported from Brussels

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Rosario bell

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Shawn relaxes in the Mahogany-paneled bar.


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Pinot noir and filet mignon...Yummy!


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Shawn had a delicious New York strip steak.

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In the evenings, deer were everywhere.

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Deer grazing

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The marina, general store and fuel pier

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Houses surrounded by cedars look down on the marina

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The marina, rock jetty, seaplane dock and flag pole

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The marina and the general store

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DRE* on the fuel pier at the resort

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Shawn is sitting upon one of the mansion's concrete walls with the bay behind him.

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Some boats moored at buoys rather than in the marina. They looked gorgeous floating in the bay.

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Shawn outside at Rosario's

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Rosario mansion from the water. The nearby 5,000 acres of land were donated to the state of Washington by Moran and became Moran State Park.

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Moran sold Rosario mansion to Donald Rheem for $50,000 in 1938. Rheem ended up investing over $11 million in the estate in 20 years until it was turned into a resort.
After enjoying a wonderful morning getting massages and body wraps in the spa, we went on a whale watching expedition. The weather was not optimum, but the local pod (J Pod) was about 40 minutes by boat from the resort. We caught the pod (on film) while they were feeding on salmon. The males circle around the salmon, and the females and young stay in the middle and feed. Only when the females and young are done do the males eat. As a result, the males die first in times when there are no salmon. Also, the whale watchers are not allowed to get within 100 feet of the feeding animals or disturb them in any way. Another interesting fact we learned was that the Native Americas do not refer to these magnificent giants as 'killer whales'. Aside from orcas, we also saw bald eagles, harbor seals and porpoises on our wet trip.

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Orca head peaking out! Check out the video of the orcas feeding!

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Two fins and an eye!

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One fin and one tail = two fish!

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The males slap their tales against the surface of the water to scare the salmon into the feeding area.

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Huge fin!

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Don't be scared! Orcas don't eat humans.

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Two Orcas gracefully swimming away

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Two going under

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A tail, a fin and another whale watching boat

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This pic gives you an idea about the weather and about how far away we are from the orcas.

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Bye bye, Orca!

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Englarge this pic to see the tiny white dot sitting on top of the tree in the middle. That is a blad eagle!
 
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Here is another bald eagle sitting on the rocks checking us out!

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You can even see the bald eagle's white feet if you enlarge this pic!
For our last evening on Orcas Island, we wanted to do something special for dinner (and to warm up again from the cold and rainy whale watching expedition). We selected the Inn at Ship Bay and were treated to what Shawn and I agreed was the BEST meal of our entire trip! Their dining room offered a seasonal menu that predominently feature fresh locally farmed products including herbs from their very own herb garden. All of their foods, breads, and desserts are created in-house, and the wine list was impressive and (unbelievably) reasonably priced. We also enjoyed the BEST pinot noir of our trip here as well. It was a Ken Wright Cellars Nysa Vineyard 2003 Pinot Noir.

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Although the restaurant was very, very classy, the dress code was still what the concierge called 'Northwestern casual'.

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DRE* savored a golden and Chioggia beet salad with fresh goat cheese, candied walnuts and citrus dressing. Magnificent!

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Shawn started with prawns in a savory saffron broth! Mmmm!

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For her entree, DRE* had a grass fed beef filet and potato puree with a black currant red wine sauce. Delicious!

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Shawn opted for the New York strip in a Zinfandel reduction with morel mushrooms. Yummy!
 
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DRE* finished with a lemon creme tartlet but the real treat was the lovely Tokaji straight from Hungary.

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Shawn devoured the warm flourless chocolate cake with pistachio anglaise and vanilla bean ice cream.

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Next time, we agreed that we are staying at the Inn at Ship Bay.
 
On July 6th, we took the ferry from Orcas Island back to Anacortes and then drove back to Seattle. We checked in with the concierge to make our Seattle dinner reservations for the three evenings and then headed out for the one most recommended to us by friends and colleagues. The restaurant is called Wild Ginger and is located in downtown Seattle. The ambience of the restaurant is more like a cool club with high ceilings, lots of mahogany, Asian art, three separate bars, a satay bar and even an upstairs with a view to the downstairs. The Southeast Asian fare heralds from Cantonese to Vietnamese to Thai, Korean and even Indonesian dishes. We would highly recommend this restaurant.

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Cheers! Here is to our first night in Seattle, Szechuan green beans, lamb bumbu, and scallops!

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I am not sure whether Shawn is focusing on the dungeness crab cakes or something else...
 
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The duck looked too good to miss, and Shawn happily ordered it and enjoyed it after our original selections arrived.

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The Alsatian Muscat was a crisp and delicious choice for the Asian-inspired cuisine.
Pike's Market is one of the places in Seattle that you must visit. It has tons of fresh food stands and kitschy shops that you can spend hours exploring.

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Entrance to Pike's Market.


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DRE* in front of "Rachel" the famous pig.


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Rows of fresh vegetables.

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DRE* expressing her undying love of Heineken!

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Pile of fresh dungeness crab.

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Bunches of lavendar.

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Olives, mushrooms & peppers.

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Shrimp sandwiched between king & dungeness crab.

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Writhing mass of crayfish.


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Uli's famous sausage.


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Lobster tails, shrimp, scallops and king crab legs.

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Berries and grapes.

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Lunch at Pike's Market. Tuna salad sandwich, hummus & pitas and caesar salad.

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It's cheese!


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More cheese.


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Cheese curds.

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Yet more cheese.
 
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Can you tell that DRE* loves cheese?

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Artistic drain work on old building on Post Alley.
Space Needle/Seattle Center


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The Space Needle.


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DRE* at the top of the Space Needle.


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Shawn on top of the Space Needle.


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Looking over the skyline.


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Sea plane landing in the bay.


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Panorama from the top of the Space Needle.


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Panorama from the top of the Space Needle.


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Panorama from the top of the Space Needle.


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I'm taking a picture of you...


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... and I'm taking one of you too.


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Experience Music Project


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Our second evening in Seattle, we enjoyed dinner at Tom Douglas' restaurant near Pike Place Market named Etta's Seafood after his daughter, Loretta. Shawn had wanted to visit a seafood restaurant in the Northwest, and I was very pleased with the cheese plate. The only drawback was the view of the vagrants loitering in Victor Steinbrueck Park across the street.

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This was the best cheese plate of our trip - complete with Macrona almonds, dates, dried figs, fresh apples and, of course, cheese!

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Shawn had a shrimp satay starter.

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As a main course, I had a Thai-inspired chicken salad. The sauce was delicious and fresh!

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Shawn had dungeness crab cakes (again) but this time they were served with a salsa verde!

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Mmmm...apple tart with cinnamon ice cream!
Since the weather was not going to allow us a day outdoors, we decided to explore Uwajimaya, one of the West Coast's largest Japanese grocery and gift markets (though it also sells items from many other places in Asia). We also enjoyed the busy food court, which offered sushi, Japanese bento-box meals, Chinese stir-fry combos, Korean barbecue, Hawaiian dishes, Vietnamese spring rolls, and an assortment of jellied milk drinks and teas. In fact, I treated Shawn to his first buddle tea here!

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This is the best looking baby bok choy I have ever seen.

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The Seattle Asian Art Museum was a bust. Closed for renovations until 2006! :-(
For our last evening before we had to leave the Great Northwest, Shawn and I put on our fancy clothes and wandered down to Cafe Campagne, which overlooks Pike Place Market. The ambience and food strongly reminded me of France, and although the ingredients were local, the dishes were perfectly simple and French. Every bite was delicious, and we would definitely recommend Cafe Campagne highly as well.

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Ahhh...cheese! This Shea 2003 Pinot Noir was quite good, too!

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The most heavenly haricot vert salad with shallots and thick-cut bacon! Yummy!

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Tasty, fresh salad with goat cheese toasts!

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Shawn enjoyed the trout almondine.

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DRE* had chicken with a roasted garlic au jus. Simple and delightful!